Fashion : Prabal Gurung Fall 2020 Ready-To- Wear Collection

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Prabal Gurung moved his show to the Rainbow Room, with its killer views, coupes of Champagne, and cushioned chairs. And what a delight those cushions were after several long days spent on hard metal benches! Gurung chose the midtown perch for its New York-iness. He called his new collection a celebration of the city, “its eclectic misfits and impossible dreamers,” and it was his most glamorous outing in a while.

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The show opened with a white tuxedo with black revers and stripes down the legs. Tailoring is the big story of the New York collections. Gurung’s is straightforward and unfussy, with clean, vaguely ’70s lines that qualify as timeless in 2020. The tux established the formal mood, but from there he roamed widely, touching on knit dressing (another developing trend), a colorful floral print on silk jacquard, and voluminous going-out tops worn with trousers. Feathers took a lead role—since Dries Van Noten x Christian Lacroix last season they’ve been everywhere—and crystals played the costar.

As the models made their slow circles around the famous dance floor, the Washington Square pianist Colin Huggins, whom Gurung has sat and sketched to many times over the years, played “New York, New York” on a grand piano. Gurung has put politics at the center of his shows since President Trump took office, and he’s watched his profile rise. Although it was tempting to see a tribute to the suffragettes in that opening white suit—it’s the centennial of the 19th Amendment this August—politics weren’t on his agenda tonight. It’s always exciting to witness a designer breaking with his formula.

by NICOLE PHELPS
For Vogue magazine

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